Kuala Lumpur
Living
in Singapore you soon come to realize that there is a special relationship
between the city-state and it's much larger neighbor to the North. Being on the
tip of the Malay Peninsular Singapore is physically connected to the mainland
via a causeway across the Johor Straits. But the real connection goes far
deeper.
Malaysia and Singapore share a joint history under British rule. In
1826 Singapore, together with Malacca and Penang, the two British settlements in
the Malay Peninsula, became the Straits Settlements, under the control of
British India with Singapore the centre of government. After WWII the Straits
Settlements was dissolved and Singapore became a Crown Colony on its own while
Penang and Malacca became part of the Malayan Union in 1946, and later the
Federation of Malaya in 1948.
On 27
May 1961, the Malayan Prime Minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, proposed closer
political and economic co-operation and after much discussion and a national
referendum, Malaysia was formed in 1963 and consisted of the Federation of
Malaya, Singapore, Sarawak and North Borneo (now Sabah) but the merger would
prove to be short-lived. Singapore was separated from the rest of Malaysia on 9
August 1965, and independent city-state.
Like
siblings each is sensitive to perceived slights from the other such as the
mirrored criticisms where Malaysia accuses Singapore of marginalizing its
Malaysian minority who in turn decry the other nation’s affirmative action
policy as being discriminatory against its Chinese minority. The Singaporean’s
view of its Northern neighbor as lazy or corrupt is answered by denigrating talk
of Singapore trading its soul in pursuit of the mighty dollar. Like any biting
remark there is some truth in both side’s arguments and what is apparent to this
traveler is that the natures of both countries represent in the broadest terms
the character of their people. What is also apparent is that Singapore cannot
match the natural beauty of Malaysia. Traveling up from Singapore to Kuala
Lumpur the country seems strangely under populated, not at all what you would
expect from the Asian Mainland. |
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One
of the places that we visited in Malaysia was the island of Penang and its
capital of Georgetown. Named after the British King George III, Penang was
founded in 1786 by Francis Light. It was the first British trading post in the
Far East. Where is quickly grew as a duty-free port. In a matter of just a few
decades more than 10,000 settlers and traders had made Penang their home:
Malays, Sumatrans, Indians and Chinese.
We
stayed at a charming hotel called the Eastern and Oriental or E & O for short
which is located on the waterfront. While an island, Penang does not have a
vibrant beach life due to the fact that it borders a natural shipping lane much
like Singapore. Still there is much to do and is definitely worth a visit.
The image
with the three rickshaws was taken in front of the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, also
known as "La Maison Bleu". Built by the legendary Chinese merchant it had 38
rooms, 5 courtyards, 7 staircases and 220 windows. he arrived penniless from
Guandong province in China at the tender age of 16. Determined to make his own
way he amassed a vast fortune and was dubbed "one of China's last Mandarins and
first capitalist. Upon his death in 1916 the British and Dutch authorities
ordered that flags be flown at half mast to mark the passing of this remarkable
gentleman. |
Malacca
 Malacca
is one of the oldest Malay sultanates, it was a major port along the legendary
spice-route, and its harbor bristled with the sails and masts of Chinese junks
and spice-laden vessels from all over the hemisphere. It was captured by the
Portuguese, 1511 and occupied by them for well over a century. Later the
Portuguese were replaced by the Dutch and then the English but to be honest even
though this European heritage is often brought up in various tourist brochures
it appears to this observer to have a much stronger Chinese flavor if anything.
In
either case I found the city to be quite picturesque. I had decided to visit
Malacca on the spur of the moment and took a bus from Singapore. The buses come
in different configurations but a common thread is plush reclining chairs with
built in massagers. Each has its own TV set where you can watch current if not
first run movies should the scene outside prove less picturesque. |