If
you asked a local citizen to compare San Francisco with other cities of similar
size such as Indianapolis, Indiana; Columbus, Ohio or Jacksonville, Florida more
often than not you would be met by an uncomprehending stare if not
uncontrollable laughter as if you had just asked the most ridiculous question
yet invented. For the citizen of San Francisco does not compare his city with
hopeless also rans but with the great capitals of the world; New York, Rome and
above all Paris. The citizen remarks that if not for the restricted size of it's
location this small town would rival all other great capitals. Visitors may
snicker but the true citizen is oblivious to any faults and blame those that
they
admit, to be the fault of outside forces. "Of course San Francisco has a
homeless problem, wouldn't you come here if you were homeless? the citizen may
explain" The raving lunatics that walk its streets are merely
transplanted mid-westerners that have arrived at the end of the line seeking one last bit of
glory.
Unbeknownst to some, the Golden
Gate Bridge is not gold nor is it painted gold or even look gold when the sun on
those rare fogless days strikes it, rather it's painted a dull red.
The
bridge was completed after what seems not a short four years after construction
began. At a cost of $35 million, it was opened to vehicular traffic on May 28,
1937 at twelve o'clock noon, ahead of schedule and under budget, when President
Franklin D. Roosevelt pressed a telegraph key in the White House announcing the
event. The Golden Gate
Bridge's 4,200 foot long main suspension span was a world record that stood for
27 years. The bridge's two towers rise 746 feet making them 191 feet taller than
the Washington Monument. The five lane bridge crosses Golden Gate Strait which
is about 400 feet, or 130 meters, deep. The traffic lanes them selves are not
separated by any permanent barrier thus requiring a reduced speed limit of 45
mph while crossing. At once a popular jumping off point for would be suicides
currently it seems at least not much notice is given for the odd individual who
wishes to make a statement. |
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Of
course San Francisco if not all of California is prone to earthquakes. But then
some may say does not a fruit have pits, a rose thorns? The citizen will ride
out small tremors that will terrorize others and not worry about something that
cannot be predicted or warned of. There is no earthquake season or earthquake
watch, nor fancy maps, names or shelters. In fact earthquakes have a proletarian
aspect for the lowly trailer park dweller has a safer time of it than those
living in restored Victorians were there to be any trailer parks in San
Francisco, the last of them around the Southern Pacific train depot having been
long a victim of gentrification.
Important to a city that considers
itself the "Paris of the West" (Baghdad by the Bay under current circumstances
having no longer the same cachet) is its museums. One quite striking museum both
for its locale and its collection is the Legion of Honor. Built to commemorate
Californian soldiers who died in World War I, the Legion of Honor is a beautiful
Beaux-arts building located in San Francisco's Lincoln Park. Overlooking the
Pacific Ocean, Golden Gate Bridge and all of San Francisco, the Legion is most
noted for its breathtaking setting. Its collections include Rodin's Thinker,
which sits in the museum's Court of Honor, European decorative arts and
paintings, Ancient art, and one of the largest collections of prints and
drawings in the country. During a recent visit the museum was hosting an exhibit
marking Claude Monet's time in Normandy. Unfortunately photographs were not
allowed of the exhibit so I had to satisfy myself with images of the general
collection.
Golden Gate Park is another famous
San Francisco landmark. The land was deeded to the people of the city in 1870
out of the prescient notion that San Franciscans would one day feel overcrowded.
This foresight proved invaluable, as 75,000 people now visit the park on an
average weekend. Larger than New York's Central Park it was left to Scotsman
John McLaren to make grass and trees grow out of sand dunes blasted by harsh
oceanside winds. He arrived in San Francisco in the 1870s, and by 1890 he had
established grass, trees and numerous plants in an environment most thought too
barren for lush foliage. Within the park is a stark white greenhouse know as the
Conservatory of Flowers. Opened in 1879 it is North America's oldest existing
public conservatory. |
The story of San Francisco is the
story of larger than life men who came out West to make their fortune. The San
Francisco Zoo has a long and sometimes troubled history. It was built from a
dream by a scion of a legendary San Franciscan family, Herbert Fleishhacker. But
even before his dream was realized there was a bear by the name of Monarch who
came to the City as the result of a famous bet. William Randolph Hearst, founder
and publisher of the San Francisco Examiner, engaged one of his reporters, Allen
Kelly, in a heated debate over whether grizzlies continued to exist in
California. Hearst ended the argument with a challenge for Kelly to go out and
find one. Photographic proof would not suffice; Kelly would have to bring the
animal back alive. After five months in the mountains of Ventura County, Kelly
and the Examiner party succeeded in luring an enormous grizzly into a catch pen
baited with honey and mutton. A crowd of 20,000 was waiting at the Townsend
Street train station to greet the triumphant Kelly and his California grizzly.
Monarch lived for 16 years, first
in Woodward’s Garden in the Mission District, then in Golden Gate Park. He sired
two cubs, and although he never set a paw in the Zoo’s current location, he
provided the impetus for Fleishhacker to pursue his dream of a bona fide city
zoo. John McLaren, Superintendent of Golden Gate Park, was receptive to
exhibiting bears, goats, elk and bison in the park meadows but when Fleishhacker
began to speak enthusiastically of lions, tigers, great apes and – his
particular fancy – elephants, McLaren strenuously objected on the grounds that
these animals would require special housing and care, and that the Park should
remain as naturalistic and undeveloped as possible.
By the mid-1920’s Fleishhacker had claimed the ideal setting for his zoo: a site
on the southwestern corner of San Francisco, adjacent to the largest swimming
pool in the United States (Fleishhacker Pool). The area also had a children’s
playground, an original Dentzel carousel, and the Mother’s Building, a haven for
women and their children. The Zoo would be a wonderful complement to this
recreational area. The first exhibits consisted of animals transferred from
Golden Gate Park. An early inventory list records two zebras, one cape buffalo,
five rhesus monkeys, two spider monkeys, and, of course, three elephants: Babe,
Virginia and Marjorie, donated by Fleishhacker himself.
I remember my trips to the pool
which was a saltwater pool where it seemed all of humanity were "taking the
waters". I also remember the plastic keys that were used to operate "talking
boxes" that described the particular exhibit. Unfortunately San Francisco is a
city of Opera Houses, Symphonies and museums who's upper crust thought
themselves too sophisticated to visit a mere zoo and the zoo would fall in to
disrepair. After many false starts and the threat of decertification a 1997 bond
measure infused some sorely needed funds for a complete re-building program.
When I visited the zoo or as the like to call it the "New" Zoo the program was
well on its way. Whether there is the money and commitment to finish the work is
still an open question but what has been created so far is certainly welcome. |